Written by: Elise Ott

This Spring, I embarked on my first trip to the Grand Canyon. Armed with a dialed in backpacking setup and a good friend from my PCT thru-hike, I felt ready for a less-traveled backcountry route below the rim. That route was a modified version of the Escalante Route, which traditionally begins at Tanner Rapids (after accessing the Colorado River via the Tanner Trail) and ends at Hance Rapids (where hikers often exit the canyon via the New Hance Trail). Instead of exiting via the New Hance Trail, we chose to extend our trip via the Tonto Trail (below the rim) and exit via the South Kaibab Trail, resulting in a 56 mile journey in the backcountry of one of America’s most beautiful national parks.

After this description you may be asking yourself what’s the difference between a route and a trail and why does it matter? A trail is what you’re probably most familiar with when backpacking and hiking. It’s a defined path, often clearly visible, well marked, and constructed for the purpose of hiking. A route is a more abstract concept. It may involve sections of trail, but can also include off-trail sections of hiking and usually requires more navigational skills. This trip involved a little bit of both.

We primarily used Gaia, a GPS and map app, for navigational purposes on this route. Gaia allows you to download gpx tracks and offline topo maps, which we could consult to figure out the best way forward during the off-trail travel portions of this awesome and challenging backpacking trip. As a side note, it’s always a good idea to have paper maps and know how to read them in case something happens to your phone.

DAY 1: Lipan Point to Tanner Rapids via the Tanner Trail

8.1 miles ~4,800 ft of loss
600 ft of gain

Our route started at Lipan Point (a popular Grand Canyon overlook) and took the Tanner Trail all the way to our first night on the Colorado River near Tanner Rapids. The Tanner Trail descends a notable 4,800 feet over 8 miles, 1,200 of which is in the very first mile. It’s also unmaintained and after a heavy winter is definitely a tall feat for even the most sure footed hiker.

Despite the challenging backpacking, the vast beauty of the Grand Canyon kept my mind off my shaking legs and focused on my good fortune.

When my companion and I finally made it to the Colorado River, we made camp at an established site near the pit toilet (no need to dig holes, woohoo!) and hung our food away from the mice.

DAY 2: Tanner Rapids to Red Canyon via the Escalante Route

12.3 miles
3,000 ft of loss, 2,800 ft of gain

The next morning, we began our hike along the famed Escalante Route. This would prove to be the most difficult section of our trek. We began the day calmly enough, walking along the banks of the Colorado before ascending quickly back toward the South Rim. Scarce water combined with the infamous Grand Canyon heat meant I went through the 3 liters I’d filled that morning more quickly than expected.

After some mild route finding and careful navigation through sections of trail that had been covered with rock slides, we re-emerged on the banks of the Colorado River in the late afternoon. I gleefully collected water, assuming our remaining three miles would pass quickly and easily. I was wrong. Shortly after our break at the river, we began climbing up and away from it once again. Before long, we were walking along the rim of Seventy Five Mile Creek (a dry creek bed with steep and dramatic canyon walls). To our surprise, we discovered the route descended a steep wall at the creek’s origin and we followed the creek bed back out, yet again, to the Colorado River. Seventy Five Mile Creek proved to be quite the treat, turning into a beautiful slot canyon part way through, but it wasn’t the end of the day’s challenges.

Shortly after emerging from Seventy Five Mile Creek, we were met with a vertical wall and cairns on ledges above eye level. With the river to our right and more cliffs to our left, we figured ‘up’ was indeed the correct direction. I was thankful for my small and light pack as I climbed hand over foot up cliff bands, away from the river below. While the holds were strong, the exposure was enough to put me slightly on edge (pun intended).

When we reached the top of the series of cliff bands, we hiked a short distance before discovering our descent. A steep gully of loose rock that appeared to cliff out also seemed to be the only way forward. While the route did not seem viable for more than a few steps, every time we took those few steps the next few revealed themselves. Slowly, we descended once again to the banks of the Colorado River where we were met with thick brush obscuring the trail all the way to camp. That night, we shared a beach with pack rafters and fell asleep under an impressive array of stars.

DAY 3: Red Canyon to a Plateau in Backcountry Zone BH9 via the Tonto Trail

20 miles
2,000 ft of loss, 3,000 ft of gain

Our past selves had been rather optimistic about our fitness capabilities and planned a 20 mile hike for our third day below the rim. While we would be joining the supposedly more well traveled Tonto Trail, 20 miles still felt like a daunting undertaking. Luckily, our packs were feeling light and the day passed without more trouble than some sore feet and semi-draining midday heat. Just as the sun was setting, we came upon a beautiful plateau and camped without our tents for unobstructed views of the stars.

DAY 4: Plateau in Backcountry Zone BH9 to South Kaibab Trailhead via Tonto and South Kaibab Trails

15.7 miles
1,300 ft of loss, 4,500 ft of gain

We rose early for our final day in the canyon, knowing the climb out would take some time (and we really wanted to get to a restaurant before closing). We followed the Tonto Trail while the switchbacks of South Kaibab teased us in the distance. The last few miles of the Tonto Trail proved to be quite eroded and slow going, but we finally reached the Tip Off and entered the land of day hikers. This is where our true climb out of the canyon began.

With over 11 miles already behind us, four miles and roughly 3,300 feet of gain still laid ahead. We climbed switchback after switchback after switchback and found joy in contrasting the well-manicured trail with the route we’d traversed in the days prior. We climbed through the heat of the afternoon, the promise of a hot meal and cold beer propelling one foot in front of the other.

Finally, around 4pm, we emerged at the South Kaibab Trailhead. We shuttled back to one of our cars and rewarded ourselves for a successful backpacking trip below the rim of the Grand Canyon.

I recommend this route to anyone looking for a Grand Canyon backcountry experience outside of the typical rim-to-rim trip. However, I recommend adding a day or two onto the itinerary so you can enjoy things at a more leisurely pace.

My Backpacking Gear List for The Grand Canyon:

While gear preferences and needs can vary, I found the list below to be a perfect setup for my four days and three nights backpacking in the Grand Canyon.

BIG BASICS:

Backpack: Neighborhood Packs 30L Meadowlark

Tent: Zpacks Plexamid 15.3 oz.

MSR Groundhog Minis Tent Stakes .46 oz

Zpacks Titanium Tent Stakes .19 oz.

*I use 4 zpacks Titanium and 3 MSR Groundhog Minis to set up my tent

Tyvek Ground Sheet 6.1 oz.

Katabatic Sawatch 15 26 oz.

Gossamer Gear thinlight foam pad 2.7 oz.

Nemo Tensor Inflatable Pad 15 oz.

CLOTHES (PACKED):

Patagonia Capilene Top 5.6 oz.